Friday, December 3, 2010

We're not in Kansas anymore Toto



Being the coastal dwellers that we are, it was with eyes wide open we began the "outback" part of our journey.  Leaving Brisbane's bright lights behind us, only an hour had passed before we knew we were in a different part of the country.  Beaudesert was our first stop for lunch and then out to The Kooralbyn School for the Gifted (that's what Jamie calls it), where Jamie could relive her last year of High School.  Kooralbyn is an international school, specialising in sports specific based curriculum. That means if you are sports talented, the school gives an equal emphasis to both sport and academic pursuits.  Jamie took her horse Gonzo in 1995, and it was good to go back and revisit it.

The van got a bit of a work out as we made our way back into NSW, through and up the Border Ranges.  The Hiace goes like a champion, but she ain't a fan of mountain ranges or of a continuous, steady assent. This hinterland part of Australia has the most amazing scenery.  Green hills and valleys at every turn.  Driving through tiny towns like Grevillia and Wiangarre is like a step back in time, with backyards looking like sets out of the Sound of Music.  Coming from NQ where inland driving is a lot of nothingness, this was an eye opener. No skinny cattle here, just fat prize winners!  

Our first overnight stay was Kyogle.  Ahh the serenity!!  Note - when deciding which site to sleep at, pay attention to the location of the train tracks.  Coal trains every hour squealing around the bend meant for a broken sleep!!  
Tenterfield Courthouse
Beautifully restored Tenterfield home...
but the neighbourhood is baaaaaad!!
We  woke with the expectation of a nice coffee dashed by the realisation we left our only 2 cups at the Bells.  Blearily we headed off early (10 is early) and made our way to Casino - that oddly enough doesn't have a Casino??  It seemed we had hooked onto a rain depression as it was following us everywhere, so driving was the option.  We saddled up for the trek to Tenterfield (Peter Allen's home) over the Richmond Range (sorry van) and again the scenery was cracking.  Tenterfield was our first real look at these sort of towns where the heritage and history of the buildings is embraced.  It gives so much appeal and character to a small community.  The utes carrying a pair of cows in the back had us remembering we in the bush!  The rain also reminded us we had left our new umbrella back with Archie!  If anyone is interested, the Tenterfield pub is for sale for about $900k!  The pie shop rocks.
Their coffee doesn't rock as much as their pies...
The rain was persisting so we decided to punch on to Armidale and arrived about 5pm.  A quick drive around showed us the caravan park was too far out of town to have a drink.  So parking the van out the front of Woolies was the option and off to the pub.  The rain had stopped, but it was 10 degrees and we learnt Armidale is the highest city in Australia.  Also learnt they don't have enough pubs 26,000 people and only 9 pubs....and half of them are on the outskirts.  Its okay, we understand you only need one, so the Whitebull became our local.  
The drive into Armidale



The very proactive Visitor centre does a free bus tour of the city and while we are not normally into tours, we thought it was a good way of getting our bearings.  Sun was out and Noel the guide took us very proudly through his town.  Armidale is a shining example of community generosity and keeping history at the fore front.  The buildings, many hailing from the 1840's, are kept in this vintage, without being comical.  It is a very house proud town, gardens are English inspired and maintained.  The university is spectacular beyond description unless you have seen it. Grand without being pompous, inspiring just by its layout and buildings.  Land which has been gifted to the uni by graziers, further evidence of the generosity of the community. You get the picture - we loved it!  
Armidale University


Wednesday, December 1, 2010

Big W turns 40

La Nina
When you become an adult things should become easier.  Unless it involves Ramon & Chopper.  So its Saturday morning and our early start has become 11.30, but its okay cause its only a 5 hour drive to Biloela  for Wildy's 40th Birthday Bash.  Naturally, it's raining on the Sunshine Coast and the windscreen wiper on Chopper's Maxima is broken, but hey that's an easy fix, just get a new wiper blade.  An hour after we pulled up at the Matilda servo, we a back on the road with our new, kinked wiper blade doing a worse job than its predecessor!

Tres Amigoes!  The Trouble Club.
Chop (c), Wildy (vc), Sec (pres.)
Tracey & Dub
Stretchy - Cutting that Rug
..and so it began
Following our pre party drinks with Cath Bell, Chopper is a bit dusty but after a close call with Mr McGru, he is okay to continue being a passenger.  Chop has a boot full of liquor, so deciding what to give Wildy is as easy as "Hey, we can open that later".  Obviously, Tequila is the winner!!  Out to Wildy & Donna's to meet everybody, give Wildy his present, get it back off him and for everyone to meet Tequila Laybacks.  Odd thing is nobody says no to laybacks and the quiet BBQ turns into a bit of a chiropractors dream.  Adults thinking they are 18 and they can dance, there is nothing better! No one got injured so that can only be a good thing.




Blue Steel
Wildy with neighbours Kellie & Dave
Dave - you're up son.
Donna & Wildy

Hey Amigos!

There is only one thing to do when you need to stop drinking....leave town.  Well we needed to leave the state, so NSW here we come!  Our trek into cockroach country was via the Gold Coast starting with a couple of coffees on the very swish Tedder Ave, Main Beach. Then the rather unswish Surfers Schoolies precinct and down to the more like it, Kirra, Coolongatta and Point Danger, where the clocks get wound forward for daylight savings.  This is where we think the landscape just becomes one amazing stretch of coastal bliss.  Great surf, white beaches and picturesque towns, so laid back you don't want to move on.

Sunset at the van park on Kingscliff Beach

Kingscliff was our first port of call, and our prime real estate was so close to the water we copped sea spray!  Sprawling beaches with hardly anyone one them - too good to be true. A few days here to get the tans back and unwind!!  Lots of these towns are built on crystal clear rivers, so you have the best of  the  surf, or the calmness of the river.

Any closer and the Blue Kahuna would be surfing!!
Just up the road is Cabarita Beach, Pottsville and Hastings Point, which continue this very laid back and friendly lifestyle.  Ramon's belief that he doesn't need a GPS telling him how to get up the road, led to more gravel roads and a little back tracking.  We finally found our bearings and had a hearty lunch at the gorgeous Brunswick Heads Hotel.  The weather was continuing to be our Enemy No.1 and so a quick look around then off to Byron Bay.
Beautiful Cabarita Beach
Popular surfing beach at Cabarita

The glorious Hotel Brunswick
The mouth of Brunswick Heads
Byron is a funny place.  Its the sort of town you wish you had visited 20 years ago.  You can see why people love it. It has the most amazing beaches with constant swells rolling in, but it is its popularity which takes away from it.  It was leading into Schoolies so maybe it was a bit over run, but you wish it was a bit less busy.  Still we will be going back as soon as the sun comes out!  
The upside of bleak weather is it makes you head inland and lucky for us Northern NSW has some great hinterland towns, so thats where we headed.  Bangalow was first, followed by Mullimbimby and then it was Jamie's turn to go bush bashing through the Mount Jerusalem National Park and finally over to the not-so-bustling Uki, population 260 - check a map, a very detailed one!  

Lunch was had and back to Qld for a drive out to Bioela - check a map - for Wildy's 40th!!

See ya Finger!

We had to head to the Big Smoke, as we had tickets to see Brissie's favourite sons...Powderfinger at the River Stage.  Again, Heather was a willing accomplice and the cause (not soley) for us being late and missing the first 3 songs!  No drama as our ordinary position turned out to be front row when the Finger appeared on the second stage - right beside us!  As always Bernard and the boys absolutely killed it and was a fitting farewell to an awesome Aussie band.

Woosa's amazing piggy back darts!! 
While in Brisneyland it would be criminal if we didn't catch up with the usual suspects for some B&B (Beer & Blanc).  So off to Sophie & Woosa's for the Darts Tournament with Toy. The stakes were high in the darts, with the loser having to wear a silly hat.  Woosa pulled out a few tricks with the old "piggy back dart" - straight into the flight of the first dart and sticking!  I think I won, but the whole thing was a bit blurry by nights end.


The new owner of the house, Bailey the cat, pranced around like..well, she owned the place.  Dougie & Kippo kept the place in the groove and, apart from the Wallabies getting trounced by the Poms and the Kangaroos losing to the Kiwis, it was a great night.

Sophie with the new landlord, Bailey!

Just in case there wasn't enough drinking done, it was off to the Sling in West End with Toy and Regan for a Sunday arvo Cocktail session.  The only thing needed to round out a cracker of a weekend was a home cooked roast.  Luckily the Peter Secco Team were onto it so we just turned up as it was coming out of the oven!  MMMMMM perfect! If only Corey hadn't taken all the gravy!!!

Noosa, Nudity & the Nags

Jamie has a bit of a soft spot for Coolum.  A clear favourite from all the places we've camped along the way and probably spent the most time at - apart from Le Hotel Bell of course!  We found ourselves back there after another stint with Catherine & Archie keen to get back on the surfboard again, scoring front row beach views at the campsite this time with the walkway at our side door.  Perfect!  We decided that we would stay there just a few nights this time and head to Noosaville for a bit afterwards keen to check out the Noosa National Park.  Heather had come up for a quick visit from Brisbane (via Caloundra...lol) for lunch so we stayed another night, played cards, had some lovely wine & amazing Indian take away and we left the next morning.

Tea Tree Bay in Noosa National Park
Having visited Noosa a few times before we knew what sort of a place it was.  With it's surf beach on the other side of Hastings Street and then the Noosa river which winds its way around the gorgeous mansions and private boat moorings into Noosaville - the best of both worlds it seems - but what we didn't know was just how amazing and beautiful the National Park was going to be.  There are so many beaches that aren't accessible by car - untouched and secluded with sensational views and waves.  Our first park hike was a little tough going due our lack of fitness and all the stairs but it was well worth it to get to the first beach, Alexandria Bay.


The locals call this beach A-Bay and it is the "unofficial" nude section of the Noosa Headland.  There is something very liberating about swimming with your kit off.  The problem with nude beaches is that in your mind you are thinking it will be crowded with young, fit nudes running around.  The reality is a lot more like the old aged home left the gates open and the guests walked over to the beach without their clothes on.  
Looking back towards Hastings St
The Noosaville Caravan Park is right on the river and is very popular.  Triathlon fever was in town for the big Noosa event - apparently 7,000 people nominated, but only 3,500 get accepted.  This meant the town was full, caravan park included.  We decided to save our $40 a night and park up in the Yacht Club carpark.  The great thing about free camping in Noosa is the park on the river has great facilities.  The BBQ areas have power, which meant we could pull out the trusty coffee machine and while people are training for the upcoming triathlon, we were watching, sipping our long blacks..!!!

Noosa did inspire us however, so we hired a 2 seat kayak for 3 hours and paddled along the river, checking out all the mansions.  Jamie got the back seat, so I'm not sure if she was paddling all the time!
Of course, Noosa being what it is, always leads you to a bar, and so the Corner Bar on Thomas St became our 2 night regular.  Down side of free camping is you spend your spare time drinking, hence the money saved is generally spent three fold.

Spending too much money - it's alright we'll win it back on the Melbourne Cup!

The poor but happy travellers

Sonia (Cath's SIL), Archie, Cath, Jamie & Ramon
Back to the Bell's and time to dress up and get ourselves over to Mulu Char on the Maroochy River, have some lunch, a few quiet drinks and pick up some easy cash on the ponies.  Easy as, bru!!  Except the last one...not to many collects and despite having 50% of the field covered, our table still couldn't pick up the $240 sweep!! Great spot, great food and they even iced our beers when we complained they weren't cold enough>  Gotta love it.


Despite their efforts punting, the boys killed it on the dance floor!

Wednesday, November 3, 2010

If you don't get rain, you don't get Rainbow Beach!

We made a decision early on to stay off the main Highways and Motorways, just so we could see more of the country side.  Most times this is the right choice, but sometimes, like our Kenilworth forrest adventure, it can be a worrying choice.  Well once again the bitumen disappeared and we are on the corrugated roads at the back of a place called Wolvi.  The main problem is you don't know how long the roads will be like this, if they will get worse or even if you should turn around and find a different route.  But just when you think everything is going to rattle off the old van, you see the bitumen again and the choice is vindicated.  Wolvi is a lovely little country town so close to the coastline and rivers with lush green beautiful paddocks and hills full of fat cows and horses you'd think that you were in high hinterlands.  It's perfect if you were wanting a bit of everything...Rainbow Beach just up the way or a quiet country secluded life.

We left the Sunny coast for a week long trip up to Rainbow Beach. We had called in there before, but the weather had been crap and it was school holidays so now it was back there for some more R & R.  Rainbow Beach is 75klms east of Gympie and is an amazing expanse of sand and ocean.  Unfortunately the Hiace isn't 4WD, as your exploration of this area would last for weeks. Its one of those great but disappearing Queensland beaches that you can drive on, allowing you to find your own little piece of privacy.  But we didn't have that luxury, so we struggled with perfect weather. There was however a wall of photos in the pub and shops showing all the recoveries of vehicles that had succumbed to inept drivers not knowing when the tides come in or just plain stupid, driving through the water and not realising that the sand is not as hard as they had been driving on earlier in the day!!  Very amusing - especially to the locals we're sure!

View from the van

We checked in to the caravan park and managed to get the front row - millionaires avenue, for $35 a night.  Rainbow is going ahead and is a very popular place for the social set. The Rainbow Beach Hotel has gone from an old style weatherboard pub full of character which got demolished and replaced with a Lounge Bar you would find in New Farm.  Jamie & I gave ourselves several CLOSE inspections of the RBH, so we are experts.
Our little blue home with the same view as the 6 star units at a fraction of the price!

This was our first opportunity since to put our new surfboard in the water, so our days were mainly falling off, but laughing the whole time.  We think we are improving but it is a slow process. Especially for Jamie!

Monday, November 1, 2010

Le Hotel Bell


When we started off on our adventure, we always knew sleeping in a van would give us a different outlook on lots of things we take for granted.  When you are used to a nice place to live, with all the mod cons then you jump in a blue Hiace, which has no a/c or power steering, things will change.  One camp ground we stayed at had a sign as you entered the shower: "PLEASE WEAR APPROPRIATE FOOTWEAR". For the uninitiated, that means it is strongly advised you wear rubber thongs into the shower!!  Yeah that takes some getting used to.  Communal toilets are par for the course, but gee you do miss having a little privacy!  
Cath and Jamie....and a real Glass!!
As we mentioned earlier, we did try and bring our nice GLASS wine glasses, but they were short lived.  Drinking out of plastic is just another small sacrifice we have had to make. (I know, I know...poor us). One-pot cooking is also a novel way to prepare meals.  Again Jamie & I are pretty keen on our tucker, and I have a knack of using every bowl, dish, pot and pan when I am cooking.  So cutting this back to one pot and a pan is tricky.  Slow cooked casseroles or my favourite, risotto, is pretty much a thing of the past....

...unless you have access to a comfortable, spacious, swanky house.  Which, thankfully, we do.  We refer to Archie & Cath Bell's lovely abode as "Le Hotel Bell", because honestly that is what it is like.  The Bells are the nicest people you could meet.  Nothing is a bother and they are probably both nutters, which happens to match perfectly with us.  Oh...and they love a drink....out of GLASS!  Say no more.  The house is freshly renovated, with a heated pool, our own toilet and a shower which is a thong free zone.  There is a massive outdoor area with Fox, BBQ and Jamie's favourite, a heater!  They let me cook and make a mess, so it is very hard to leave.  Oh and they are smack in the middle of the Sunny coast, so its sensational.
Uummm.....yep! Ramon, Harps, Arch & Cath having a social drink?
But the real reason we love it here is their "kids", Bruce & Betty (Boo Boo) - the Staffies! Who, just when you thought it couldn't be any more blissful, have just had 3 of the most gorgeous puppies which reduce adults to goo!  So while we are able to go away for our little adventures in our van and take in all the Sunshine Coast has to offer, it is great to be able to slip back into some normality and use a kitchen, have a shower sans thongs and then play with the pups until they pee on you.

Handsome Bruce at the card table
Love your work Brucey!

Betty cuddling up with mummy's boy Razz.
Dinny, Toy & Razz.