Wednesday, December 8, 2010

On Top of The World


From Armidale the drive through the New England National Park is amazing.  The only worrying part is we might become a bit blase` with being surrounded by such scenery - you know "oh yeah another amazing waterfall..". Anyway, after finding a cracking coffee in Armidale, we were off and the first stop to marvel at is Woolombi Gorge, where the water plunges down 260 metres.  Signs tell us that "...discovered this in 1912 and with his team of donkeys...." and you constantly get reminded of how those explorers found these places and how long it must have taken them.
Wollombi Gorge



The NSW Government of the 1930's were very proactive in setting up National Parks, and protecting areas for the public to appreciate for picnics and camping while marveling at these fantastic locations.  Point Lookout in the New England National Park was our next stop and with amazing views over the Bellingen Valley, all the way to Coffs Harbour on the coast.  The density of the trees is incredible and the vast variety of colours are amazing and to know that these areas will never be touched is relieving.
Point Lookout at NE National Park
Moss covered everything!
Stand still too long and you'll be covered as well!
Even the trees were hairy!
A quick brunch in this rainforest, then it was off to the Guy Fawkes National Park to to see the Ebor Falls.  Two separate falls which always run at a torrent regardless of how little rain the area has had.  In Armidale, our guide showed us pictures of Ebor Falls frozen solid in mid flight.  This happened in 1925 and again in 2003 - it was about 11 below.  A walk on the escarpment then off to Dorrigo, probably the most well known Park in NSW.

Ebor Falls
We can't emphasise enough how the drive through these places is absolutely stunning.  It's like being in another country, then you check yourself and remember you are only an hour from the coast!!  Dorrigo the town is a little strange - maybe the population of 1100 are all related??  Jamie had managed to injure her foot, and the weather was very windy and a bit cool, so we decided to camp up.
Dorrigo Plateu - the view from the Caravan Park
Dorrigo has walking tracks throughout its National Park and they are the best way to see the amazing waterfalls and forests on offer.  The first thing to do is visit the Rainforest Centre and do the Skywalk, which takes you out high above the forest canopy.  We decided to go to Never Never Picnic Area and do the walk it offers.  The Rosewood Creek walk takes you into the dampness of this incredible place and the history of the Dorrigo Plateau.  The landscape of Dorrigo is like a patchwork quilt - dense trees then huge clearings of green.  When you get into the forest you realise how thick the place was, and how much clearing was involved by Cedar-getters and land owners.  The trees that were felled and those that remain are massive!!  The tools of the day were axes!  Cut in to a tree, put your springboard in, stand on it and start cutting with your axe.  On your walk there are numerous stumps with springboard holes  constantly reminding you of the pioneers work load.

Massive trees that have fallen
and rangers have cut parts
to clamber through

The walk is pretty easy, but it does get a little steeper and narrower when you do the detour to Cedar Falls.  Going to Cedar  Falls added another hour and a half to the walk, but was well worth it, especially when we were the only people there.  Well, for 45 minutes anyway!!!  A bit of leg burn on the way back up, as well as a little embarrassment at our lack of conditioning!! 

Cedar Falls
Cedar Falls
Jem taking a break at Coachwood
Falls after the leech incident!

Coachwood Falls - Freezing cold water!
The track then takes you to Coachwood Falls, named after the massive trees, which the forest is full of.  We looked hard for  a platypus, but to no avail.  Jamie had a close encounter with a leech, and the funny thing about a leech is where they bite you bleeds for a long time.  Seems not to congeal, so Jamie was freaking out.  Karma baby when we got back to the van and I find 2 in my socks.  After I had been driving for 10 minutes, the floor of the Hiace looked like a murder scene - these bites would not stop bleeding! 

Jem bleeding to death....
After 5 hours walking in the Dorrigo rainforest, battling man eating leeches, we thought the best thing was to "fly" down the range to the sleepy hippie village of Bellingen.  The road from Dorrigo is honestly  30 klms downhill from on of the highest towns in Australia all the way to Bellingen in the valley.  "Are they our brakes I can smell?",  Jamie asks, but I reassure her its the old truck in front.  Not only steep but winding and the Hiace with all of its positives, handles like a brick, so we pulled off about 5 klms out of Bellingen for us to realise, "Yep, thats our brakes smelling!!"  Time to hit the pub and cool everything down!!

1 comment: