On Top of The World

From Armidale the drive through the New England National Park is amazing.  The only worrying part is we might become a bit blase` with being surrounded by such scenery - you know "oh yeah another amazing waterfall..". Anyway, after finding a cracking coffee in Armidale, we were off and the first stop to marvel at is Woolombi Gorge, where the water plunges down 260 metres.  Signs tell us that "...discovered this in 1912 and with his team of donkeys...." and you constantly get reminded of how those explorers found these places and how long it must have taken them.

Wollombi Gorge

The NSW Government of the 1930's were very proactive in setting up National Parks, and protecting areas for the public to appreciate for picnics and camping while marveling at these fantastic locations.  Point Lookout in the New England National Park was our next stop and with amazing views over the Bellingen Valley, all the way to Coffs Harbour on the coast.  The density of the trees is incredible and the vast variety of colours are amazing and to know that these areas will never be touched is relieving.

Point Lookout at NE National Park

Moss covered everything!
Stand still too long and you'll be covered as well!
Even the trees were hairy!

A quick brunch in this rainforest, then it was off to the Guy Fawkes National Park to to see the Ebor Falls.  Two separate falls which always run at a torrent regardless of how little rain the area has had.  In Armidale, our guide showed us pictures of Ebor Falls frozen solid in mid flight.  This happened in 1925 and again in 2003 - it was about 11 below.  A walk on the escarpment then off to Dorrigo, probably the most well known Park in NSW.

Ebor Falls

We can't emphasise enough how the drive through these places is absolutely stunning.  It's like being in another country, then you check yourself and remember you are only an hour from the coast!!  Dorrigo the town is a little strange - maybe the population of 1100 are all related??  Jamie had managed to injure her foot, and the weather was very windy and a bit cool, so we decided to camp up.

Dorrigo Plateu - the view from the Caravan Park

Dorrigo has walking tracks throughout its National Park and they are the best way to see the amazing waterfalls and forests on offer.  The first thing to do is visit the Rainforest Centre and do the Skywalk, which takes you out high above the forest canopy.  We decided to go to Never Never Picnic Area and do the walk it offers.  The Rosewood Creek walk takes you into the dampness of this incredible place and the history of the Dorrigo Plateau.  The landscape of Dorrigo is like a patchwork quilt - dense trees then huge clearings of green.  When you get into the forest you realise how thick the place was, and how much clearing was involved by Cedar-getters and land owners.  The trees that were felled and those that remain are massive!!  The tools of the day were axes!  Cut in to a tree, put your springboard in, stand on it and start cutting with your axe.  On your walk there are numerous stumps with springboard holes  constantly reminding you of the pioneers work load.

Massive trees that have fallen
and rangers have cut parts
to clamber through

The walk is pretty easy, but it does get a little steeper and narrower when you do the detour to Cedar Falls.  Going to Cedar  Falls added another hour and a half to the walk, but was well worth it, especially when we were the only people there.  Well, for 45 minutes anyway!!!  A bit of leg burn on the way back up, as well as a little embarrassment at our lack of conditioning!! 

Cedar Falls

Cedar Falls

Jem taking a break at Coachwood
Falls after the leech incident!

Coachwood Falls - Freezing cold water!

The track then takes you to Coachwood Falls, named after the massive trees, which the forest is full of.  We looked hard for  a platypus, but to no avail.  Jamie had a close encounter with a leech, and the funny thing about a leech is where they bite you bleeds for a long time.  Seems not to congeal, so Jamie was freaking out.  Karma baby when we got back to the van and I find 2 in my socks.  After I had been driving for 10 minutes, the floor of the Hiace looked like a murder scene - these bites would not stop bleeding! 

Jem bleeding to death....

After 5 hours walking in the Dorrigo rainforest, battling man eating leeches, we thought the best thing was to "fly" down the range to the sleepy hippie village of Bellingen.  The road from Dorrigo is honestly  30 klms downhill from on of the highest towns in Australia all the way to Bellingen in the valley.  "Are they our brakes I can smell?",  Jamie asks, but I reassure her its the old truck in front.  Not only steep but winding and the Hiace with all of its positives, handles like a brick, so we pulled off about 5 klms out of Bellingen for us to realise, "Yep, thats our brakes smelling!!"  Time to hit the pub and cool everything down!!

We're not in Kansas anymore Toto

Being the coastal dwellers that we are, it was with eyes wide open we began the "outback" part of our journey.  Leaving Brisbane's bright lights behind us, only an hour had passed before we knew we were in a different part of the country.  Beaudesert was our first stop for lunch and then out to The Kooralbyn School for the Gifted (that's what Jamie calls it), where Jamie could relive her last year of High School.  Kooralbyn is an international school, specialising in sports specific based curriculum. That means if you are sports talented, the school gives an equal emphasis to both sport and academic pursuits.  Jamie took her horse Gonzo in 1995, and it was good to go back and revisit it.

The van got a bit of a work out as we made our way back into NSW, through and up the Border Ranges.  The Hiace goes like a champion, but she ain't a fan of mountain ranges or of a continuous, steady assent. This hinterland part of Australia has the most amazing scenery.  Green hills and valleys at every turn.  Driving through tiny towns like Grevillia and Wiangarre is like a step back in time, with backyards looking like sets out of the Sound of Music.  Coming from NQ where inland driving is a lot of nothingness, this was an eye opener. No skinny cattle here, just fat prize winners!  

Our first overnight stay was Kyogle.  Ahh the serenity!!  Note - when deciding which site to sleep at, pay attention to the location of the train tracks.  Coal trains every hour squealing around the bend meant for a broken sleep!!  

Tenterfield Courthouse

Beautifully restored Tenterfield home...

but the neighbourhood is baaaaaad!!

We  woke with the expectation of a nice coffee dashed by the realisation we left our only 2 cups at the Bells.  Blearily we headed off early (10 is early) and made our way to Casino - that oddly enough doesn't have a Casino??  It seemed we had hooked onto a rain depression as it was following us everywhere, so driving was the option.  We saddled up for the trek to Tenterfield (Peter Allen's home) over the Richmond Range (sorry van) and again the scenery was cracking.  Tenterfield was our first real look at these sort of towns where the heritage and history of the buildings is embraced.  It gives so much appeal and character to a small community.  The utes carrying a pair of cows in the back had us remembering we in the bush!  The rain also reminded us we had left our new umbrella back with Archie!  If anyone is interested, the Tenterfield pub is for sale for about $900k!  The pie shop rocks.

Their coffee doesn't rock as much as their pies...

The rain was persisting so we decided to punch on to Armidale and arrived about 5pm.  A quick drive around showed us the caravan park was too far out of town to have a drink.  So parking the van out the front of Woolies was the option and off to the pub.  The rain had stopped, but it was 10 degrees and we learnt Armidale is the highest city in Australia.  Also learnt they don't have enough pubs 26,000 people and only 9 pubs....and half of them are on the outskirts.  Its okay, we understand you only need one, so the Whitebull became our local.  

The drive into Armidale

The very proactive Visitor centre does a free bus tour of the city and while we are not normally into tours, we thought it was a good way of getting our bearings.  Sun was out and Noel the guide took us very proudly through his town.  Armidale is a shining example of community generosity and keeping history at the fore front.  The buildings, many hailing from the 1840's, are kept in this vintage, without being comical.  It is a very house proud town, gardens are English inspired and maintained.  The university is spectacular beyond description unless you have seen it. Grand without being pompous, inspiring just by its layout and buildings.  Land which has been gifted to the uni by graziers, further evidence of the generosity of the community. You get the picture - we loved it!  

Armidale University

Big W turns 40

La Nina

When you become an adult things should become easier.  Unless it involves Ramon & Chopper.  So its Saturday morning and our early start has become 11.30, but its okay cause its only a 5 hour drive to Biloela  for Wildy's 40th Birthday Bash.  Naturally, it's raining on the Sunshine Coast and the windscreen wiper on Chopper's Maxima is broken, but hey that's an easy fix, just get a new wiper blade.  An hour after we pulled up at the Matilda servo, we a back on the road with our new, kinked wiper blade doing a worse job than its predecessor!

Tres Amigoes!  The Trouble Club.
Chop (c), Wildy (vc), Sec (pres.)

Tracey & Dub

Stretchy - Cutting that Rug

..and so it began

Following our pre party drinks with Cath Bell, Chopper is a bit dusty but after a close call with Mr McGru, he is okay to continue being a passenger.  Chop has a boot full of liquor, so deciding what to give Wildy is as easy as "Hey, we can open that later".  Obviously, Tequila is the winner!!  Out to Wildy & Donna's to meet everybody, give Wildy his present, get it back off him and for everyone to meet Tequila Laybacks.  Odd thing is nobody says no to laybacks and the quiet BBQ turns into a bit of a chiropractors dream.  Adults thinking they are 18 and they can dance, there is nothing better! No one got injured so that can only be a good thing.

Blue Steel
Wildy with neighbours Kellie & Dave

Dave - you're up son.

Donna & Wildy

Hey Amigos!

There is only one thing to do when you need to stop drinking....leave town.  Well we needed to leave the state, so NSW here we come!  Our trek into cockroach country was via the Gold Coast starting with a couple of coffees on the very swish Tedder Ave, Main Beach. Then the rather unswish Surfers Schoolies precinct and down to the more like it, Kirra, Coolongatta and Point Danger, where the clocks get wound forward for daylight savings.  This is where we think the landscape just becomes one amazing stretch of coastal bliss.  Great surf, white beaches and picturesque towns, so laid back you don't want to move on.

Sunset at the van park on Kingscliff Beach

Kingscliff was our first port of call, and our prime real estate was so close to the water we copped sea spray!  Sprawling beaches with hardly anyone one them - too good to be true. A few days here to get the tans back and unwind!!  Lots of these towns are built on crystal clear rivers, so you have the best of  the  surf, or the calmness of the river.

Any closer and the Blue Kahuna would be surfing!!

Just up the road is Cabarita Beach, Pottsville and Hastings Point, which continue this very laid back and friendly lifestyle.  Ramon's belief that he doesn't need a GPS telling him how to get up the road, led to more gravel roads and a little back tracking.  We finally found our bearings and had a hearty lunch at the gorgeous Brunswick Heads Hotel.  The weather was continuing to be our Enemy No.1 and so a quick look around then off to Byron Bay.

Beautiful Cabarita Beach

Popular surfing beach at Cabarita

The glorious Hotel Brunswick

The mouth of Brunswick Heads

Byron is a funny place.  Its the sort of town you wish you had visited 20 years ago.  You can see why people love it. It has the most amazing beaches with constant swells rolling in, but it is its popularity which takes away from it.  It was leading into Schoolies so maybe it was a bit over run, but you wish it was a bit less busy.  Still we will be going back as soon as the sun comes out!  

The upside of bleak weather is it makes you head inland and lucky for us Northern NSW has some great hinterland towns, so thats where we headed.  Bangalow was first, followed by Mullimbimby and then it was Jamie's turn to go bush bashing through the Mount Jerusalem National Park and finally over to the not-so-bustling Uki, population 260 - check a map, a very detailed one!  

Lunch was had and back to Qld for a drive out to Bioela - check a map - for Wildy's 40th!!

See ya Finger!

We had to head to the Big Smoke, as we had tickets to see Brissie's favourite sons...Powderfinger at the River Stage.  Again, Heather was a willing accomplice and the cause (not soley) for us being late and missing the first 3 songs!  No drama as our ordinary position turned out to be front row when the Finger appeared on the second stage - right beside us!  As always Bernard and the boys absolutely killed it and was a fitting farewell to an awesome Aussie band.

Woosa's amazing piggy back darts!! 

While in Brisneyland it would be criminal if we didn't catch up with the usual suspects for some B&B (Beer & Blanc).  So off to Sophie & Woosa's for the Darts Tournament with Toy. The stakes were high in the darts, with the loser having to wear a silly hat.  Woosa pulled out a few tricks with the old "piggy back dart" - straight into the flight of the first dart and sticking!  I think I won, but the whole thing was a bit blurry by nights end.

The new owner of the house, Bailey the cat, pranced around like..well, she owned the place.  Dougie & Kippo kept the place in the groove and, apart from the Wallabies getting trounced by the Poms and the Kangaroos losing to the Kiwis, it was a great night.

Sophie with the new landlord, Bailey!

Just in case there wasn't enough drinking done, it was off to the Sling in West End with Toy and Regan for a Sunday arvo Cocktail session.  The only thing needed to round out a cracker of a weekend was a home cooked roast.  Luckily the Peter Secco Team were onto it so we just turned up as it was coming out of the oven!  MMMMMM perfect! If only Corey hadn't taken all the gravy!!!

Noosa, Nudity & the Nags

Jamie has a bit of a soft spot for Coolum.  A clear favourite from all the places we've camped along the way and probably spent the most time at - apart from Le Hotel Bell of course!  We found ourselves back there after another stint with Catherine & Archie keen to get back on the surfboard again, scoring front row beach views at the campsite this time with the walkway at our side door.  Perfect!  We decided that we would stay there just a few nights this time and head to Noosaville for a bit afterwards keen to check out the Noosa National Park.  Heather had come up for a quick visit from Brisbane (via Caloundra...lol) for lunch so we stayed another night, played cards, had some lovely wine & amazing Indian take away and we left the next morning.

Tea Tree Bay in Noosa National Park

Having visited Noosa a few times before we knew what sort of a place it was.  With it's surf beach on the other side of Hastings Street and then the Noosa river which winds its way around the gorgeous mansions and private boat moorings into Noosaville - the best of both worlds it seems - but what we didn't know was just how amazing and beautiful the National Park was going to be.  There are so many beaches that aren't accessible by car - untouched and secluded with sensational views and waves.  Our first park hike was a little tough going due our lack of fitness and all the stairs but it was well worth it to get to the first beach, Alexandria Bay.

The locals call this beach A-Bay and it is the "unofficial" nude section of the Noosa Headland.  There is something very liberating about swimming with your kit off.  The problem with nude beaches is that in your mind you are thinking it will be crowded with young, fit nudes running around.  The reality is a lot more like the old aged home left the gates open and the guests walked over to the beach without their clothes on.  

Looking back towards Hastings St

The Noosaville Caravan Park is right on the river and is very popular.  Triathlon fever was in town for the big Noosa event - apparently 7,000 people nominated, but only 3,500 get accepted.  This meant the town was full, caravan park included.  We decided to save our $40 a night and park up in the Yacht Club carpark.  The great thing about free camping in Noosa is the park on the river has great facilities.  The BBQ areas have power, which meant we could pull out the trusty coffee machine and while people are training for the upcoming triathlon, we were watching, sipping our long blacks..!!!

Noosa did inspire us however, so we hired a 2 seat kayak for 3 hours and paddled along the river, checking out all the mansions.  Jamie got the back seat, so I'm not sure if she was paddling all the time!
Of course, Noosa being what it is, always leads you to a bar, and so the Corner Bar on Thomas St became our 2 night regular.  Down side of free camping is you spend your spare time drinking, hence the money saved is generally spent three fold.

Spending too much money - it's alright we'll win it back on the Melbourne Cup!

The poor but happy travellers

Sonia (Cath's SIL), Archie, Cath, Jamie & Ramon

Back to the Bell's and time to dress up and get ourselves over to Mulu Char on the Maroochy River, have some lunch, a few quiet drinks and pick up some easy cash on the ponies.  Easy as, bru!!  Except the last one...not to many collects and despite having 50% of the field covered, our table still couldn't pick up the $240 sweep!! Great spot, great food and they even iced our beers when we complained they weren't cold enough>  Gotta love it.

Despite their efforts punting, the boys killed it on the dance floor!